
Now I say good ol' because in France it is white asparagus that reigns supreme — funny this fascination with "torturing" certain vegetables (leeks, Belgian endive, radicchio rosso di Treviso tardivo , asparagus) only to then venerate them. By torturing I mean depriving them of any sunlight (no, white asparagus is not a variety in and of itself), heaping mounds of sand up and over each stalk from the moment it sprouts till the time it is hewn down. Merciless, I'd say! In this way no chlorophyl develops — God forbid — giving the normally rotund white stalks a supposedly milder flavor.
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