It's a been a while since I sent out a newsletter... I got lost wandering the sweeping plains and grape vines of the Loire Valley. The country kitchen, local farm produce, and the mineral-toned natural wines of the region also kept me swirling and savoring.
When I got my "city feet" back on track, I received a vibrant group of women for a cooking class and thought I'd offer you the recipes that we stirred up together.
We started with a watercress pesto bruschetta and I corked a Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon n˚5 from the Touraine in the Loire Valley (one of my favorite, natural wineries). We then made a red cabbage-fresh lime salad and a simple fresh shell-bean salad — Michelet beans — a lusciously earthy French specialty — and I filled our glasses with Mikail Bouge's La Pente de Chavigny, also a 100% Sauvignon Blanc, and another of my preferred natural wineries in the Touraine neighborhood. From there we turned to constructing a ratatouille and encouraging traditional cornmeal to become a creamy polenta, with which I served a Domaine du Moulin 100% Cot (called Malbec in Bordeaux and Auxerrois in Cahors), a slightly tanic red wine with lovely mineral tones. We then got our hands buttery making and our fingertips a bit seared coaxing hot freshly blanched almonds out of their shells for our fresh almond cream.
It was quite a tour de force. And a sumptuous meal savored with stimulating conversation and warm laughter!
So here goes...
When I got my "city feet" back on track, I received a vibrant group of women for a cooking class and thought I'd offer you the recipes that we stirred up together.
We started with a watercress pesto bruschetta and I corked a Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon n˚5 from the Touraine in the Loire Valley (one of my favorite, natural wineries). We then made a red cabbage-fresh lime salad and a simple fresh shell-bean salad — Michelet beans — a lusciously earthy French specialty — and I filled our glasses with Mikail Bouge's La Pente de Chavigny, also a 100% Sauvignon Blanc, and another of my preferred natural wineries in the Touraine neighborhood. From there we turned to constructing a ratatouille and encouraging traditional cornmeal to become a creamy polenta, with which I served a Domaine du Moulin 100% Cot (called Malbec in Bordeaux and Auxerrois in Cahors), a slightly tanic red wine with lovely mineral tones. We then got our hands buttery making and our fingertips a bit seared coaxing hot freshly blanched almonds out of their shells for our fresh almond cream.
It was quite a tour de force. And a sumptuous meal savored with stimulating conversation and warm laughter!
So here goes...
WATERCRESS PESTO - makes 300 ml
50 gr fresh watercress
1 large garlic clove, peeled and sprout removed, plus 3 – 4 whole, peeled garlic cloves for the grilled bread
50 -60 gr freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
50 gr freshly blanched almonds
60 - 70 ml extra-virgin olive oil + extra for brushing the grilled bread
Unrefined sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Rustic bread or sweet baguette
For the pesto :
— Cut the stems off the watercress. Wash and spin dry, then lay out on a kitchen towel until completely dry. Remove any stem nodules that remain, but you can leave an inch or so of the stems. Blend the watercress, garlic, and a pinch of coarse unrefined sea salt in a blender (or crush in a mortar until smooth then continue with the remaining ingredients as follows). Add 1/2 of the olive oil along with the almonds and blend until the nuts are quite fine (1 minute at most). Scrape the side of the chopper if necessary. Add the Parmesan with the rest of the olive oil and blend until smooth (1 minute). Season to taste with unrefined sea salt and freshly ground pepper.
— Cut 1/4 inch-thick, 2-inch square slices of rustic bread or baguette (20 – 25 pieces) under broiler until golden on both sides.
— Generously rub each toast with a fresh garlic clove then brush generously with olive oil.
Note : You might wish to garnish each bruschetta with a small spoonful of roasted hazelnut olive oil. Simply roast a small handful of hazelnuts until their skins start to crack. Wrap them in a towel and rub them vigorously to remove what skins will come off. Rapidly chop them somewhat fine and place them in a small bowl. Add a pinch or two of fresh lemon zest and enough quality extra virgin olive oil to just cover. Set the bowl near a stove pilot for an hour or so (or make the flavored oil the night before and leave out in a warm place over night). Just before using add a pinch of sea salt. Put a bit in a teaspoon and top the watercress pesto with the oil, pressing down to make a slight well for the flavored oil to sit in. Garnish with a
Note : You might wish to garnish each bruschetta with a small spoonful of roasted hazelnut olive oil. Simply roast a small handful of hazelnuts until their skins start to crack. Wrap them in a towel and rub them vigorously to remove what skins will come off. Rapidly chop them somewhat fine and place them in a small bowl. Add a pinch or two of fresh lemon zest and enough quality extra virgin olive oil to just cover. Set the bowl near a stove pilot for an hour or so (or make the flavored oil the night before and leave out in a warm place over night). Just before using add a pinch of sea salt. Put a bit in a teaspoon and top the watercress pesto with the oil, pressing down to make a slight well for the flavored oil to sit in. Garnish with a a slight pinch of chopped black olives twist of freshly ground pepper.
50 gr fresh watercress
1 large garlic clove, peeled and sprout removed, plus 3 – 4 whole, peeled garlic cloves for the grilled bread
50 -60 gr freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
50 gr freshly blanched almonds
60 - 70 ml extra-virgin olive oil + extra for brushing the grilled bread
Unrefined sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Rustic bread or sweet baguette
For the pesto :
— Cut the stems off the watercress. Wash and spin dry, then lay out on a kitchen towel until completely dry. Remove any stem nodules that remain, but you can leave an inch or so of the stems. Blend the watercress, garlic, and a pinch of coarse unrefined sea salt in a blender (or crush in a mortar until smooth then continue with the remaining ingredients as follows). Add 1/2 of the olive oil along with the almonds and blend until the nuts are quite fine (1 minute at most). Scrape the side of the chopper if necessary. Add the Parmesan with the rest of the olive oil and blend until smooth (1 minute). Season to taste with unrefined sea salt and freshly ground pepper.
— Cut 1/4 inch-thick, 2-inch square slices of rustic bread or baguette (20 – 25 pieces) under broiler until golden on both sides.
— Generously rub each toast with a fresh garlic clove then brush generously with olive oil.
Note : You might wish to garnish each bruschetta with a small spoonful of roasted hazelnut olive oil. Simply roast a small handful of hazelnuts until their skins start to crack. Wrap them in a towel and rub them vigorously to remove what skins will come off. Rapidly chop them somewhat fine and place them in a small bowl. Add a pinch or two of fresh lemon zest and enough quality extra virgin olive oil to just cover. Set the bowl near a stove pilot for an hour or so (or make the flavored oil the night before and leave out in a warm place over night). Just before using add a pinch of sea salt. Put a bit in a teaspoon and top the watercress pesto with the oil, pressing down to make a slight well for the flavored oil to sit in. Garnish with a
Note : You might wish to garnish each bruschetta with a small spoonful of roasted hazelnut olive oil. Simply roast a small handful of hazelnuts until their skins start to crack. Wrap them in a towel and rub them vigorously to remove what skins will come off. Rapidly chop them somewhat fine and place them in a small bowl. Add a pinch or two of fresh lemon zest and enough quality extra virgin olive oil to just cover. Set the bowl near a stove pilot for an hour or so (or make the flavored oil the night before and leave out in a warm place over night). Just before using add a pinch of sea salt. Put a bit in a teaspoon and top the watercress pesto with the oil, pressing down to make a slight well for the flavored oil to sit in. Garnish with a a slight pinch of chopped black olives twist of freshly ground pepper.
RED CABBAGE-FRESH LIME SALAD w/ FRESH WHITE SHELL-BEAN SALAD
– serves 4 – 6
400 gr red cabbage
2 tBsp fresh lime juice
Zest of 1 lime
1 slight tablespoon light raw honey - acacia, alfalfa or clover for example, (if crystallized, heat briefly)
30 - 40 ml (2 1/2 - 3 tablespoons) quality extra-virgin olive oil
40 gr lightly roasted walnuts
Unrefined sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
— Preheat the oven to 160 ˚C ( 325 ˚F). Place the walnuts in a baking dish of sorts and bake in the oven for 10 minutes, or until lightly roasted. Let cool then chop coarsely.
— Wash and dry the cabbage. Remove any bruised leaves. Cut out the white heart. Slice very thin with a mandolin over a large bowl. Add the fresh lime juice, honey, extra virgin olive oil, and a pinch of unrefined sea salt. Mix well. Set in the refrigerator to marinate for at least 1 hour. Remove and let stand until almost returned to room temperature.
— Stir in the chopped walnuts and lime zest. Adjust the seasoning with pinch more of salt, a bit more lime juice and perhaps a drizzle more of olive oil if desired.
Fresh White Shell-Bean Salad
400 grams / slight 1 lb fresh white shell beans, unshelled (225 gr shelled) — or substitute dried beans and see bean note below
Coarse unrefined sea salt
2 bay leaves
1 large clove garlic, peeled but left whole
30 ml fresh lime juice
1 small handful coarsely chopped flat parsley
Extra virgin olive oil
Unrefined sea salt and freshly ground pepper
— Shell the beans (soak in cold water for at least 2 hours, if possible soak over night in the refrigerator). Drain and transfer to a large pot. Cover with 1 inch of water. Add the fresh bay leaves and garlic clove. Place the lid on the pan and bring to a boil. Add a generous pinch of coarse unrefined sea salt, return to a boil then cook covered at a simmer for 20 - 25 minutes, or until al dente. Turn off the heat and let stand in the cooking water for 15 minutes.
— Drain the beans and transfer to a large bowl. Discard the bay leaves and garlic clove. Immediately add the lime juice and a good drizzle of olive oil. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.
— Stir in the parsley. Adjust the seasoning with sea salt to taste, and give a few grinds of the pepper mill.
To serve : Place a couple generous tablespoons of the cabbage salad in the center of a crisp leaf of butter, romaine, or Sucrine lettuce. Place a scoop of the bean salad alongside or around. Serve with little toasts spread with fresh goat cheese.
Bean note : Fresh shell beans are widely available in late summer and early autumn. But feel free to use dried beans (from the previous year’s harvest, if possible). Use 175 gr / 1/3 lb dried beans, cover the beans with 2 1/2 inches of water, add the bay leaves and garlic, extend the cooking time (1 hour or more), and ADD THE SALT ONLY TOWARD THE END OF THE COOKING TIME (the last 10 – 15 minutes) while still slightly crunchy. Remember that dried beans increasingly lose their moisture over time. Thus the older they are, the longer they need to be cooked. The best way to judge when they are approaching the right cooked is simply to test them from time to time…
– serves 4 – 6
400 gr red cabbage
2 tBsp fresh lime juice
Zest of 1 lime
1 slight tablespoon light raw honey - acacia, alfalfa or clover for example, (if crystallized, heat briefly)
30 - 40 ml (2 1/2 - 3 tablespoons) quality extra-virgin olive oil
40 gr lightly roasted walnuts
Unrefined sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
— Preheat the oven to 160 ˚C ( 325 ˚F). Place the walnuts in a baking dish of sorts and bake in the oven for 10 minutes, or until lightly roasted. Let cool then chop coarsely.
— Wash and dry the cabbage. Remove any bruised leaves. Cut out the white heart. Slice very thin with a mandolin over a large bowl. Add the fresh lime juice, honey, extra virgin olive oil, and a pinch of unrefined sea salt. Mix well. Set in the refrigerator to marinate for at least 1 hour. Remove and let stand until almost returned to room temperature.
— Stir in the chopped walnuts and lime zest. Adjust the seasoning with pinch more of salt, a bit more lime juice and perhaps a drizzle more of olive oil if desired.
Fresh White Shell-Bean Salad
400 grams / slight 1 lb fresh white shell beans, unshelled (225 gr shelled) — or substitute dried beans and see bean note below
Coarse unrefined sea salt
2 bay leaves
1 large clove garlic, peeled but left whole
30 ml fresh lime juice
1 small handful coarsely chopped flat parsley
Extra virgin olive oil
Unrefined sea salt and freshly ground pepper
— Shell the beans (soak in cold water for at least 2 hours, if possible soak over night in the refrigerator). Drain and transfer to a large pot. Cover with 1 inch of water. Add the fresh bay leaves and garlic clove. Place the lid on the pan and bring to a boil. Add a generous pinch of coarse unrefined sea salt, return to a boil then cook covered at a simmer for 20 - 25 minutes, or until al dente. Turn off the heat and let stand in the cooking water for 15 minutes.
— Drain the beans and transfer to a large bowl. Discard the bay leaves and garlic clove. Immediately add the lime juice and a good drizzle of olive oil. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.
— Stir in the parsley. Adjust the seasoning with sea salt to taste, and give a few grinds of the pepper mill.
To serve : Place a couple generous tablespoons of the cabbage salad in the center of a crisp leaf of butter, romaine, or Sucrine lettuce. Place a scoop of the bean salad alongside or around. Serve with little toasts spread with fresh goat cheese.
Bean note : Fresh shell beans are widely available in late summer and early autumn. But feel free to use dried beans (from the previous year’s harvest, if possible). Use 175 gr / 1/3 lb dried beans, cover the beans with 2 1/2 inches of water, add the bay leaves and garlic, extend the cooking time (1 hour or more), and ADD THE SALT ONLY TOWARD THE END OF THE COOKING TIME (the last 10 – 15 minutes) while still slightly crunchy. Remember that dried beans increasingly lose their moisture over time. Thus the older they are, the longer they need to be cooked. The best way to judge when they are approaching the right cooked is simply to test them from time to time…
TRADITIONAL CORMEAL POLENTA - serves 4 - 6
Note : This recipe uses traditional (not pre-cooked) polenta. I find the texture of the cooked polenta to be far superior to that made with pre-cooked polenta. If using instant polenta, simply follow the instructions for the cooking time and follow the rest of the recipe.
200 gr traditional (not instant) polenta or cornmeal
2 tBsp extra virgin olive oil
50 - 75 gr freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Unrefined coarse and fine sea salt
— Bring 1 liter of cold water to a boil in a large covered high-sided pot. Add a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of coarse sea salt, and bring back to a boil. Slowly sprinkle in the polenta, stirring constantly with a whisk to prevent any lumps from forming. When the polenta returns to a boil, turn the heat to very low and cook uncovered for 40 minutes, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, without scraping the bottom of the pan. (Don’t hesitate to add more water if necessary… the polenta should be quite liquid at the beginning.)
After 40 minutes, add the olive oil and cheese and stir well. Remove from the heat and season with fine sea salt to taste.
Note : You can serve the polenta directly from the pan once cooked. Or you can pour it into a 9 x 13-inch (or similar) baking dish, smoothing out the top (it should be about 3/4-inch thick). Set aside to cool for 1 – 2 hours then cut into squares or rectangles. Brush both sides with olive oil and cook under the broiler until golden brown on each side, or heat a generous drizzle of olive oil in a skillet and fry until golden on both sides.
Note : This recipe uses traditional (not pre-cooked) polenta. I find the texture of the cooked polenta to be far superior to that made with pre-cooked polenta. If using instant polenta, simply follow the instructions for the cooking time and follow the rest of the recipe.
200 gr traditional (not instant) polenta or cornmeal
2 tBsp extra virgin olive oil
50 - 75 gr freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Unrefined coarse and fine sea salt
— Bring 1 liter of cold water to a boil in a large covered high-sided pot. Add a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of coarse sea salt, and bring back to a boil. Slowly sprinkle in the polenta, stirring constantly with a whisk to prevent any lumps from forming. When the polenta returns to a boil, turn the heat to very low and cook uncovered for 40 minutes, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, without scraping the bottom of the pan. (Don’t hesitate to add more water if necessary… the polenta should be quite liquid at the beginning.)
After 40 minutes, add the olive oil and cheese and stir well. Remove from the heat and season with fine sea salt to taste.
Note : You can serve the polenta directly from the pan once cooked. Or you can pour it into a 9 x 13-inch (or similar) baking dish, smoothing out the top (it should be about 3/4-inch thick). Set aside to cool for 1 – 2 hours then cut into squares or rectangles. Brush both sides with olive oil and cook under the broiler until golden brown on each side, or heat a generous drizzle of olive oil in a skillet and fry until golden on both sides.
TORTA SBRISOLONA (di Mantova) - serves 6 – 8
125 gr white flour (I use 50 gr brown rice flour and 75 gr Spelt flour)
75 gr corn flour
100 gr unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
100 gr unrefined cane sugar
100 gr almonds (skins left on)
Zest of 1 lemon
2 egg yolks
Pinch of unrefined sea salt
— Preheat the oven to 180 ˚C (350 ˚F)
— Coarsely chop the almonds in a chopper. (If you want you can leave aside a small handful of whole almonds to garnish the torta before placing in the oven)
— Place all the dry ingredients in a large bowl and make a well in the middle. Add the butter and lemon zest and mix with your fingertips until the butter is well incorporated and the mixture is crumbly. Add the egg yolks and mix to incorporate. Do not form into a ball; the mixture should remain crumbly.
— Generously butter a 24-cm (9-inch) square baking dish. Add the crumbly mixture, leveling it and pressing down ever so lightly. The sbrisolona should come about 2 cm (3/4 inch) up the sides of the dish.
— Bake in the oven for 30 – 40 min, or until the top and edges are nicely golden. Remove from the oven and let cool completely in the baking dish. Then gently remove it.
— To serve break into large pieces and serve with a small bowl of fresh almond cream (see recipe) garnished with a sprinkling of cinnamon powder.
ALMOND CREAM
450 gr sweet almonds
1 liter cold water
1/3 tsp, agar agar powder (you might want to test your agar agar, all brands do not seem equal)
125 gr unrefined cane sugar
Pinch cinnamon powder
Pinch fresh lemon zest
1/4 tsp fresh lemon juice
— Blanch the sweet almonds in boiling water for 45 seconds. Drain and let cool just long enough to be able to handle. Remove the skins by squeezing one end of each almond between your fingers. If you wish you can soak them in a bowl of very cold water for 1 hour to render them whiter. Drain and transfer to a blender. Add 700 ml of the water and blend (beginning on low speed and then high speed) until the almonds are broken up before adding the rest of the water. Blend for 1 – 2 minutes until the liquid is smooth and milky. Place some fine muslin or a thin kitchen towel over a large pan and pour in half of the almond milk. Slowly start twisting the towel tighter and tighter, pressing on the ball of meal that forms in the bottom of the towel as you go, until you have squeezed out all of the almond milk. (The milk can be made the day before, and is best used within 2 days.)
— Combine the sugar and almond milk in a saucepan. Stir in the agar agar (and bitter almond extract if using) and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Let the milk rise to the top of the pan then lower the heat and cook for 45 seconds. Transfer to a bowl, stir in in the cinnamon and lemon zest and set aside to cool then place in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
— Stir in the lemon juice just before serving.
Serve a small bowl of the almond cream along with Torta Sbrisolona.
Agar agar note : You can also use agar agar flakes, in which event add 1 tBsp of the flakes to a bit of the almond milk and soak for 5 minutes before adding to the saucepan. When the almond milk boils, lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes or until all the flakes have dissolved. You might then wish to strain the cooked milk to remove any flakes that have not completely dissolved. I personally prefer using agar agar powder for that reason.
Wine note : Serve with a Moscato dell’Oltrepò Pavese or a Greco di Bianco
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