here is one from SEPTEMBER 2009 :
Noëlla is one of an ever expanding gang of small natural wine vintners in the Loire Valley I discovered while vacationing there in August. As Jean-Marie Puzelat, of Clos du Tue Boeuf, explained it to me… it’s one thing to talk about organic wine, which denotes that the grapes used in a wine were grown organically but speaks nothing of the methods used in vinification in which chemical and technological interventions — chaptalization (where sugar is added), the introduction of foreign yeasts, the addition of ample doses of sulfur dioxide, as well as clarification, fining, and filtering of the wine — are so often the norm; and quite another to talk about natural wine, which starts with biodynamically grown grapes and then skillfully vinfied with as little intervention as possible on the part of the winemaker: — The fields are low-yielding, the grapes hand picked. Chaptalization is strictly out, as is the addition of foreign yeasts. No fining or filtration is undertaken, and little or no sulfur dioxide is added – for the purists, sulfur dioxide is off the table. The grapes are left to their own natural process, somewhat of a miracle like the turning of water into wine at the wedding at Canaan.
BACI di DAMA - makes 20
70 unbleached white flour (I substitute brown rice flour, for its gluten free-ness)
70 gr hazelnuts or filberts (you can substitute lightly toasted blanched almonds)
50 gr softened sweet butter
50 gr cane sugar
30 gr pure 58% dark chocolate
Pinch of salt
— Toast the hazelnuts in the oven at 180 °C (350 °F) for 10 - 15 minutes, or until skins darken and begin to blister and the aroma of roasted nuts begins to seep from the oven. Wrap them in a kitchen towel and let steam for a couple of minutes. Vigorously rub the towel against the nuts to remove the skins. Don't worry about the skins that don't come off. When cool, finely chop to the consistency of coarse flour, or grind them into meal a coffee grinder or the chopper of a hand blender, just don't overdo it or the meal will turn to butter.
— all the ingredients in a bowl; I use my hands to make sure the butter is well distributed throughout. Flatten the dough into a slab about 3/4 inch thick and set in the refrigerator in a covered container for 1 hours.
— Preheat the oven to 160 °C (315 °F). Remove the dough from the refrigerator and cut into 3 pieces. Roll each into a thin log and cut into pieces weighing approx 5 gr. Form each piece into a ball, rolling it between the palms of your hands. (I first squeeze it in the palm of one hand to soften the dough a bit and give it the beginning form of a ball then continue by gently rolling it between both palms. If it breaks apart during the process, tightly squeeze it together again then gently roll between your hands). Place them on a baking sheet, either buttered or lined with parchment paper, spacing them 1-inch apart. Bake on the middle rack of the oven for 18 - 25 minutes. The tops should begin to slightly crack, the bottoms should be gently golden. Let them cool on the baking sheet before removing.
— Break the chocolate into pieces and melt in a bain-marie. Drop the tip-of-a-teaspoonful of chocolate onto the center of the flat side of one cookie and cover with a second. Carefully lay each Baci di Dama down on its side until the chocolate has hardened.
— You can keep them in an air-tight container for up to 1 week.
wine note: A bottle of Moscato d´Asti from the provincia di Alessandria, or a Champalou Cuvée Moelleuse or Les Fondraux from Vouvray make great company with a plate of Baci di Dama.